Simanaitis Says

On cars, old, new and future; science & technology; vintage airplanes, computer flight simulation of them; Sherlockiana; our English language; travel; and other stuff


THE ISLAND of Madeira is an autonomous region of Portugal, 323 miles off the African coast, due west of the Straits of Gibraltar. It’s also a great place for driving an open sports car, especially in the month of November.

An open sports car, neat roads, beautiful scenery.

And so it was back in 1996, when I attended the introduction of BMW’s 2.8-liter Z3 in Madeira. Little did I know that my adventure would include a poetry recital to BMW’s charming PR lady at a local wine cellar.

But this is getting ahead of the story.

Sightseers are assumed to take some responsibility for their own safety.

Madeira is a dramatically mountainous island of volcanic origin, its southern coastline reminding me of California’s Big Sur. By contrast, its northwest portion is wet and lush, while other bits resemble the surface of the moon. The island’s high point is Pico Ruivo, just a tad over 6000 ft. in elevation.

All this in a place one-fourth the area of Rhode Island, ten times the area of Manhattan.

The Z3 drive included south coast, north coast and mountain-spine twisties. The roads were uniformly well paved, if on the narrow side with the occasional bovine residents keeping us honest.

A bovine right of way prevails.

The base was Reid’s Palace Hotel in Madeira’s capital, Funchal. Reid’s, established in 1891, is now part of the Orient-Express Hotel Group. It continues to be one of the world’s most luxurious.

The view of Reid’s Hotel from Funchal is spectacular, as is the view of town from Reid’s.

As corroboration of this, I note that Reid’s is listed in my Brown’s Madeira, Canary Islands and Azores. “Fine gardens,” the 1922 guidebook notes, “in a commanding position on the cliff to the west side of town; rates from 22s a day.”

If something was worth seeing in 1922, it’s all the more worth seeing today.

We celebrated the island’s rich wine-making tradition with a visit to Cellier de S. Francisco, where we sampled several fine Madeiras. These are fortified reds, their characters enhanced by two oddities of production—exposure to heat and to movement. (It’s said this was discovered by accident when ships returned wine cargo.)

It was at the wine cellar that I recited poetry to BMW’s Claudia Hoepner-Korinth. I much enjoy the musical satire of Michael Flanders and Donald Swann, a favorite being the song, “Have Some Madeira, M’Dear.” In part:

“Have some Madeira, m’dear. You’ve really got nothing to fear. I won’t try to tempt you; that wouldn’t be right. You shouldn’t drink spirits at this time of night.”

Then later,

“She lowered her standards by raising her glass, her courage, her eyes—and his hopes.”

And later still,

“Have some Madeira, m’dear. I’ve got a small cask of it here. And once it’s been opened, you know it won’t keep. Do finish it up; it’ll help you to sleep….”

Flanders & Swann’s wonderful satire includes The Hippopotamus Song, Slow Train and Have Some Madeira, M’Dear.

To learn the outcome of Flanders and Swann’s adventure—not mine, I hasten to add—listen to “The Complete Flanders &  Swann” CD. It’s listed at ds

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.


This entry was posted on September 7, 2012 by in Just Trippin' and tagged , , , , .
%d bloggers like this: