THE EYED NEEDLE DEFINED FASHION

“CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN,” Mark Twain wrote, “Naked  people have little or no influence on society.”

And Sanjana Gajbhiye writes in earth.com, June 29, 2024, “Fashion History Was Forever Altered by the Tiny Eyed Needle 40,000 Year Ago.”

What’s more, Dr. Ian Gilligan et al. confirm this in “Paleolithic Eyed Needles and the Evolution of Dress,” AAAS ScienceAdvances, June 28, 2024.

Why Clothes? Why Fashion? Sanjana Gajbhiye writes, “Have you ever thought about why we wear clothes? Yes, they keep us warm and maintain our modesty, but there’s even more to it than that. The story of clothing is as fascinating as human history itself. Surprisingly, the tiny one-eyed needle became a key component in fashion.” 

Dr. Gilligan and his colleagues write in their Abstract, “Eyed needles are among the most iconic of Paleolithic artifacts, traditionally seen as rare indicators of prehistoric clothing, particularly tailoring.” They cite two significant developments: the emergence of underwear in layered garments for thermal protection, and a transition from body adornment to the decorating of clothes.”

“Archaeological evidence for underwear is limited,” the researchers note, “but the Upper Paleolithic saw an increase in personal ornaments, some sewn onto clothing. Eyed needles may mark a pivotal shift as clothes acquired the social functions of dress, decoupling clothing from climate and ensuring its enduring presence.”

Colder Climate, More Clothes. The researchers describe, “We know that clothing up until the last glacial cycle was only used on an ad hoc basis. The classic tools that we associate with that are hide scrapers or stone scrapers, and we find them appearing and going away during the different phases of the last ice ages.”

Fewer Tatts. Gajbhiye imagines, “Picture living in a world where showing off body paint or scars was impossible due to extreme cold. What could early fashion-conscious individuals do?”

She says, “The solution was simple: if they couldn’t embellish their bodies, they would embellish their clothes….” 

From Awls to Eyed Needles.  The researchers describe, “1) In circumstances where finer sewing was desired or required, the process of inserting a thread by hand through a small hole became increasingly tedious, a challenge that was addressed by drilling an eye into the proximal end of the awl to carry the thread through.”

They continue, “2) As a consequence of the above technological innovation, eyed needles made sewing more efficient, by combining two separate processes into one: (i) the piercing of holes in hides and (ii) the threading of sinew or fiber through the holes.”

Above, awls used to punch holes in hides. Below, eyed needles efficiently included the thread. Images from Gilligan et al.

A Tipping Point in Human History. The researchers write, “Eyed needles would also be useful in adding fur trim, which can serve both thermal and decorative purposes. Eyed needles were a technological advance that facilitated more effective thermal insulation and the transformation of clothing into dress. For these reasons, eyed needles were a tipping point in human prehistory.”

An artist’s impression of decorated tailored clothing in the Upper Paleolithic. Image by Mariana Ariza in Gajbhiye’s article.

Looking Ahead. Gajbhiye writes, “So the next time you don your favorite outfit, pause to appreciate the rich history behind it. From simple animal hides to intricate designs, from survival gear to social statements, our clothes narrate a tale as old as humanity itself.”

“And who knows?” she says. “In another 40,000 years, researchers will all be dissecting the meaning of skinny jeans and what it says about our civilization.”

Zowie! ds

© Dennis Simanaitis, SimanaitisSays.com, 2024