MY BRIGHTEST (ALBEIT SHARPEST) OF SOUTHERN ITALY

OF ALL MY BAEDEKER’S GUIDE BOOKS, my Southern Italy is in the best condition. A 1912 edition, it’s far from the newest. Yet its spine is tight, its pages unruffled, its maps bright and intact. How come traveling hasn’t taken its toll on this bright red pocketbook? Part of this is the fact that its original owner fastidiously encased its covers in plasticine. Part is that I’ve been a bit embarrassed to travel with this particular Baedeker’s and its occasionally scathing reportage. Examples follow.  

Above, my 1912 edition. Below, Baedeker’s Southern Italy and Sicily, Handbook for Travellers, Karl Baedeker, 1900. More typically, this AbeBooks’ example is listed as “fair” and shows signs of good use. 

A Preface’s Warning: “The objects of the Handbook for Southern Italy and Sicily, which now appears for the sixteenth time, are to supply the traveller with some information regarding the culture, art, and character of the people he is about to visit, as well as regarding the natural features of the country…. The Handbook will also, it is hoped, save the traveller many a trial of temper; for probably nowhere in Europe is the patience more severely taxed than in some parts of Italy.” 

Ouch.

Language: “It is quite possible for Englishmen to travel in the regions around Naples, Palermo, and Syracuse, perhaps with the aid of a little French, but in this case the traveller cannot conveniently deviate from the beaten track, and is moreover constantly exposed to extortion. Those, therefore, who desire the utmost possible freedom and dislike being imposed upon, will find a slight acquaintance with Italian indispensable.” 

A lengthy footnote followed with comments on pronunciation and usage: “In addressing persons of the educated classes ‘Lei,’ with the 3rd-person sing., should always be employed. (addressing several at once ‘loro’ with the 3rd. per. pl.). ‘Voi’ is used in addressing waiters, drivers, etc.”

You can guess which was to be used in the phrase “You must count them again in my presence.”

Naples, 1912. This and other images from Baedeker’s Southern Italy.

On Begging: “(Accattonaggio), which has in Italy been regarded from time immemorial as a legitimate mode of earning one’s daily bread, has, perhaps, of late become a little less obnoxious in Naples itself….” On the other hand, Baedeker’s continued with a lengthy paragraph about “the foolish practice of ‘scattering copper coins to be struggled for by the street arabs” and the “obviously infirm” supporting “able-bodied loafers.” 

It advised, “Importunate beggars should be dismissed with ‘niente.’ A slight backward movement of the head accompanied by a somewhat contemptuous expression (the ανανευειν of the Greeks) is a sign of refusal well understood in S. Italy and Sicily. Italians often obtain the same end by shaking the right hand from side to side, with raised forefinger.” 

Hmm…. “The ανανευειν of the Greeks” is new to me, and Google Translate confuses by saying it means “refreshing.” (?) I understand the Italian admonition.

Palermo, 1912.

Intercourse with Italians. Gratuities. Guides. Baedeker’s said, “While most travellers will soon and easily become used to the customs of N. Italy and Rome, intercourse with the people in the S. end of the peninsula requires a more careful study. On the principal routes, and especially in and near Naples, the insolence and rapacity of cab-drivers, boatmen, porters, and others of a similar class have attained an almost incredible pitch.” 

The guidebook’s advice was again lengthy and complex. Verbal battles were to be avoided: “The slighter his knowledge of the Italian language is the more careful should he be not to involve himself in a war of words, in which he must necessarily be at a great disadvantage.” 

On a rare bit of accommodation, Baedeker’s suggested “ ‘Patti chiari, amicizia lunga’ is a good Italian proverb.” No translation was provided, so it’s back to Google Translate: “Clear agreements, long friendship.” 

Gee, whatever happened to ανανευειν?

Motoring and Cycling. “The rule of the road in Italy is usually the exact opposite of that in England,” recounted Baedeker’s, “but it varies in different districts.” 

And wouldn’t that have made for interesting touring? 

Restaurants. Cafés. Wine Shops. Baedeker’s claimed, “Restaurants of the first class do not exist in Southern Italy; even in Naples good French cookery is to be found only in the large hotels.” 

Geez.

A summary of Italian cuisine. 

“The national Restoranti or Trattorie, however,” Baedeker’s continued, “are sometimes very good; and even in the smaller towns the traveller will have little difficulty in finding a tolerable, though not always scrupulously clean, establishment of this kind.” 

Uh, gee, thanks.

Why my Baedeker’s Southern Italy is So Pristine. I’ve never taken my Southern Italy on various business junkets and early retirement adventures. See “My Targa Florio” as one of the most memorable. Was I afraid several of this particular Baedeker’s views would offend these very nice people? ds

© Dennis Simanaitis, SimanaitisSays.com, 2024